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48 The Authority | AUGUST 2023 Continued from page 29. slippage? Are there abrasion issues? And how good does it look? We learned from our oil-stained PFC-free prototype that our product quality team had to work with factories on sewing and finishing processes. We’re still finding ways to test if some chemistries are more susceptible to stains and oil than others. At times, the challenge wasn’t in the lab but with our partners. When we were ready to make our Nano Puff styles PFC-free, it was our supplier who refused, citing that they needed more time and experience with the treatment. Other times, something that worked well in the lab didn’t stand up in the wild. “We have our Ironclad Guarantee, so we can’t just smack a new chemistry on a product and send it out into the world knowing it could fail,” says Karba, a former environmental researcher at Patagonia. “We need to guarantee that it’ll work in the lab and field. That’s why it’s taken years to transition to that func- tional, durable chemistry that doesn’t have PFCs.” All our waterproof products, including those with PFC-free DWR, must meet Pa- tagonia’s rigorous H₂No® Performance Standard. It’s intentionally demanding so that we say yes only to products that guarantee long-lasting waterproof perfor- mance and breathability. After passing the lab check, these products are tested during skiing/snowboarding seasons all over the world. Key findings come out of field testing: When you wipe cheeseburger-covered hands on your Powder Town Jacket, that oily residue will stain the jacket until you wash it. You might also see “wet out,” when the exterior of the fabric looks wet but the inside— and you—aren’t wet at all. These are the trade-offs we can live with because they’re easily remedied with proper care and repair (See sidebar “A Clean Shell is a Happy Shell”.) Fall 2019 brought the first of many wins: our first PFC-free DWR products, like the Pack Rain Covers. Two years later was our first 100 percent PFC-free tech- nical products for alpine climbing, the Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs—that was huge. Converting to PFC-free alternatives on both the shell surface and interior membrane, while also meeting a customer’s definition of “waterproof,” is a high bar to pass, requiring additional innovation, testing and time. This Spring 2023 season, we debuted a PFC-free rain jacket, our stalwart Torrentshell, which gets us to 66 percent PFC-free across all fabrics with a DWR finish. But it’s about more than just our company, as we work with our suppliers and mills to prioritize shifts that will move the needle industry-wide. Scheff remem- bers one supplier who told her team that if the factory began using our PFC-free chemistry, they’d use it on other brands’ waterproof gear, too—whether those brands asked for the chemistries or not. That’s a big win considering the resist- ance we got from suppliers when we started to move away from C6 in 2016. Our final push to 100 percent PFC-free by 2024, with the exception of waders, will be the hardest. Technical products like waders have been the toughest chem- istry to crack, compounded in part by COVID-19-induced supply chain issues. “We’ve moved slowly because we want to make sure the performance is there,” Scheff says. “And sometimes getting that perfect marriage of fabric and chemis- try means completely redesigning a piece. I’m just waiting for the day I can pop the champagne.” S A Clean Shell Is a Happy Shell Dirt, body oil, sunscreen and smoke can all impact DWR (durable water repellent) performance. Over time, your shell might “wet out,” but just because it looks wet doesn’t mean you are wet. That gear is still waterproof thanks to a PFC-free membrane, which doesn’t require upkeep. The DWR finish that lets water bead up and roll off your garment will benefit from some TLC. Here’s how to care for your shell so it lasts for the long haul: • Washing waterproof gear is key to performance. Use a detergent designed for waterproof shells, or your regular laundry detergent and add a second rinse cycle. • A machine dryer is better than air drying because heat is an essential part of reactivating the water-repel- lent properties. The medium/per- manent press setting is usually best. Dry your shell for at least a half hour or until fully dry and warm. • When water stops beading up on your shell, try a PFC-free water- proofing solution, available online and at most outdoor gear stores. Wash-in treatments tend to be more effective than spray-on. Patagonia’s Mission The brand and company's com- mitment to the overall mission of saving the planet is what has built the success of the outdoor apparel brand over the last several decades. Patagonia was implementing ethical business practices long before it was cool to do so and has made reducing the company's footprint a priority. This story was reprinted with per- mission from Patagonia. It originally appeared in the Patagonia50 Jour- nal, Spring 2023 edition. www.patagonia.com